Articles & Write-Ups > Texas Monthly

There is something timeless about the feel of this relaxed café with Texas license plates lining one wood wall and Longhorn horns decorating the others. No wonder: It has been run by the same family since 1932. Owner Edgar Black, the son of the founder, still does things the way Daddy did, using post oak to indirectly smoke the meat, which is seasoned only with salt and pepper. The moist, deep-flavored brisket cooks for 24 hours, the good beef-and-pork sausage is homemade. Hammy pork ribs, chicken redolent of smoke. Made-from-scratch sauce is thick, red and sweet. Sides are numerous.

- Texas Monthly "The 50 Best Barbecue Joints in Texas", May 1997.